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The Secret History of the Corset and Crinoline

No other garment in Western history has assumed such political, social, and sexual significance. What is it about the corset? A mere undergarment, designed to enhance the female figure, has become an icon of all that fascinates about the ambiguous sexual codes of the Victorian era. Was wearing corsets primarily about sexual empowerment or restrictive chastisement? Could the corset explain common female maladies of the Victorian era, from fainting fits to miscarriage? How great was the suffering, for how small a waist?

Restrictive Flamboyance and the Crinoline Craze: 1830-1860

From cage crinolines to bustles and body-hugging corsets, it was often the structures worn under clothes which gave Victorian fashion its form. Examine the devices invented to compress the waist, make the skirts look fuller, or to help the dress project out from behind. Explore how these undergarments really effected the women who wore them, aiming to dispel popular rumours and open up questions.

From the Crinoline, to the Crinolette, to the Bustle: 1860-1880

During the 1870s the bustle became a separate undergarment in its own right. The new form of bustle was known as a 'dress-improver' or by its French name 'tournure' as the word bustle was considered vulgar in polite society.

From Over-Structured Opulence to the 'Healthy Corset': 1880-1900

By the 1880s the corset had become a very elegant and desirable object in a woman's wardrobe and much attention paid to its design and execution. The rapid growth of the corset manufacturing industries meant that there was greater variety in materials, colour, size and fit.

A Turn Toward the Bust: Early 20th Century

By 1910, corsets were cut so long that they reached well over the thighs. They also tended to be shaped very low around the bust line so women would need more support on top - if at least to preserve decency with the low-cut evening dresses of the time.

All Tied-Up: The Corset in Contemporary Fashion

The disappearance and reappearance of the corset in 20th century fashion seem to be linked to the cyclical changing of female shapes, especially to the waist being enhanced or concealed.